Taklimakan
desert
Period:October-November
1998
"The
desert of irrevocable death". This is the meaning of the
word Taklimakan in the Uyguri language, a population that lives
in extreme conditions on the border of the desert. To them,
even from the age of Marco Polo, whoever goes in would never
come out. In fact none of the numerous caravans that for centuries
have traveled on the Silk Road ever crossed it. The desert is
located at north west of the country in the middle of a depression,
surrounded by the Himalayan Mountains. It is considered the
second biggest inhabitable desert in the world, after the Sahara.
Carla decided
to try her most difficult challenge: with a backpack weighting
24 kilos and alone, she wanted to try crossing it on foot, from
the south side to the north side. She would be the first person
in the world to do it.
She left
from a small town called Seghez situated on the north of Yutian
on the southern part of the Taklimakan, on October the 26th,
assisted as always by her husband and a support team. In her
backpack, besides the ultra light tent weighting only 900 grams,
the sleeping bag and the cooking equipment made of titanium,
there were few high-tech clothes, a digital video camera, a
photo camera, and a small tripod. Tied to her chest there was
also a heart monitor to survey the physical strength of the
athlete. She kept in touch with the base camp through a satellite
phone, weighting two kilos and half powered by a solar panel
tied to the top of her backpack. To save more weight she ate
only pills and dried high-energy products (the same ones used
on space missions) and had to take 27 pills a day. The total
backpack weight was 18 kilos with an additional six liters of
water.
During the first part of her trip, Carla walked in the dry bed
of the Keriya River, which is one of the Ghost Rivers that crossed
the desert in the period of the big glaciers melting and she hoped
to find some water puddles to refill her supply. Sometimes the
water was undrinkable because of the high salt concentration,
which made her diverge in another direction to find the precious
liquid. As always she carried a GPS to track her direction which
she checked every night before sending it by satellite phone to
the base camp that was following her from about 80 kilometers
away.
After just
few days, a terrible blister on her heel almost made her quit,
but luckily in the small Daheyan oasis she found a pair of Chinese
shoes that helped her to continue her journey.
She walked
for 150 kilometers before arriving in the unexplored and hardest
part of her challenge. " In front of me I can see the immense
stretch of big sand dunes so beautiful, leaving me breathless:
I ask silently to whom is following me from above to give me
the strength to keep going, Then out loud I talk to the desert.
"Please, let me by you".
Between
the dunes there is no water. After Carla departed, her assistant
friends with a caravan of camels, went into the desert to leave
her four water re-supplies each of six liters, that she would
have to find following the direction on the GPS and the coordinates
given on the phone.During the entire duration of the trip she
did not have any physical contact with her base camp, and if
she would have missed just one supply leg, she would have had
to quit. The water consumption was relatively low due to the
low temperatures (from a maximum of 35 degrees during the day
to a minimum of - 12 degrees at night).
The worst enemy of Carla'a was in fact the cold temperature
during the night: in the small tent everything became icy and
the long 12 hour Chinese nights became a nightmare. For a week
she walked up and down from dunes measuring more than hundred
meters, similar to big waves in the ocean 360 degreases around,
with the support of just a pair of sand rackets and without
ever meeting any life forms, and she reached every supply station.
After 270
kilometers, Carla arrived at the Mazar Tagh Mountains, the end
of the most dangerous part of the challenge. She was able to
find the dry bed of the Hotan, another river and she found small
water puddles in which she could collect some water after breaking
the ice on the surface.She still had to walk for 280 kilometers
in an environment full of monotony and against the temperature
which kept dropping lower and the icy wind that was following
her: the water needs went down to one and a half liter a day.
On November
18th after 24 days and 550 kilometers of complete loneliness
she arrived at Luo Tuan, a small town located on the northern
side of the desert by Aksu where she successfully ended her
crossing.Waiting for her was her husband, the full support team,
the Chinese television and several reporters. Also with them
there was the father of a Chinese kid who gave her some pictures
of his son, who had died the year before trying to cross the
Taklimakan.
With her
backpack still on her shoulders, Carla went down on her knees
toward the desert and saluted it. In the sand during her last
night of camping she buried a small box with a love and thanks
message for the Taklimakan that gave her the permission to realize
her dream.